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If Europe is an old matriarch, Italy is the mole on her face.

Layered and overlooked, prominent yet glanced-over. But the delightful and dark surprises that lie below require a patron to get lost in the ancient maze of her jumbled streets, to take moments to sigh in the shabby splendor of her presence. Nonetheless, her unwillingness to change will give future generations the task of understanding her, as she ages even more in a world that in many ways is leaving her behind.

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Take the right turn and you’ll find yourself staring down a row of oddly-spaced medieval columns, or across a ridge lined with the pale green of tidy and ripe olive trees.

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There are few places to go here, and even fewer reasons to hurry.

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peek around corners and climb steps that may or may not lead to anywhere.

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